The type of resin putty to be used here is made from waxed resin with enough industrial talcum powder or micro balloons or other suitable filler mixed to a suitable thickness similar to soft butter, not too thick and not to thin. You will need a steel screed that is about 2’0” [610mm] long. The best screeding tools are made out of the type of steel that is used for making handsaws so an old saw with the teeth ground off would serve the purpose.
The resin putty “bog” will have extra added accelerator, about a half to one percent – talk to your supplier for the correct amounts. Make sure you experiment with your resin putty mix, before you start hull. Colours can be added to different bog layers to show what progress you are making. If you hull is reasonably fair or even if it is not, you may elect to do your own screeding using the materials as outlined in this chapter. You will soon get the hang of it.
The method is to start at the keel line and work down towards the sheerline, screeding down the hull, until you have covered the entire surface. Now sand off to a smooth finish and repeat the process working along the hull or diagonally so that the hips and hollows are covered from at least two directions. If your “bog” starts to cure prematurely or if it contains lumps and foreign matter; throw it away because it will only cause tracks and grooves in the area you are trying to screed. You will have very little success if you use “bog” that is not smooth and of the correct consistency. You will need some practice to decide the right amount of the catalyst to use with each mix. It is not wise to use a mix with a setting time of longer than fifteen minutes, as your “bog” will probably suffer from under cure and clog up your sanding discs when you get to that stage. If your mix is too fast, because too much catalyst is used, it will set before you have a chance to screed it out. It is best not to leave your “bog” unsanded overnight as you will have a difficult job to sand it the next day. At least sand the worst before leaving it overnight.
You may want to start your “bog” finishing on the transom so if you do have any problems, you find out on a small area rather than the hull itself. It is important to get your “bog” mix right because you will use the same formula throughout the boat. It is important to keep the sun off any part that is being bogged. Even a weak sun will increase the cure time and cause distortion.