On most round bottom hulls, the easiest place to start planking C-Flex is with the first piece running along the centre line or keel. Because of the flexible nature of the rods, they will bend sideways, allowing the planks to be butted alongside each other all the way to the sheerline. It is also possible to start at the sheer and work upwards to the keel in the same manner and, as stated earlier, this may not be quite so easy.  C-Flex will follow a compound curve without deforming so you should be able to complete the planking without having to shape any planks. The C-Flex will only need ice picks or staples to hold it in place.  

   If you try to make it sideways bend beyond a certain point you may, occasionally, have to help the material by taking two small 2” [50mm] C or G clamps and fasten them tightly to the ends of the single hard rod on the inside of the bend - then pull from both ends. As long as the pull is in line with the strand and kept on the proper part of the clamp, the material can readily be pulled into place.     Alternatively, if you can foresee that there is going to be a problem, you may start to install the planking in the middle of the hull rather that at the sheerline.   Along the waterline may be a good starting point.   Now you can let the planking run out at the ends when it reaches the sheer and keel lines.

   If you have already started with the C-Flex parallel to the sheer,  and you find that the curve is becoming too tight,  you can stop,  wet out the C-Flex that is already installed and allow the resin to cure.   Next take a plank of unsaturated C-Flex and place it over the frames letting it fall naturally in place.   Butt the unsaturated plank alongside the cured plank in the middle of the hull and let it fall across the ends or across the area where you are having the problem.   Mark along the edge of the unsaturated plank.   Now cut along your scribed line using a hand power saw equipped with an abrasive cutting blade.   Be sure to set the blade so it just cuts through the C-Flex and not into the battens or frames.   Remove the off-cut wedge shaped pieces and now you can go on to install the C-Flex with a fresh straight fore and aft line to work from.

   On most V bottom boats, particularly power boats we have found the easiest place to start is with the first plank run fore and aft along the chine with half the plank on the bottom and half on the side of the hull.   Try to keep the same two small rods each side of the chine batten and this will assure you of a good start to the clean edge you will be looking to obtain in this area.   Examine some production fibreglass power boats and you will see what I mean.