The only people who decry the use of full-size patterns are those who either don’t have access to them or those with masochistic tendencies. Under no circumstances try to “improve” on the patterns by using the offsets (if available) to re-loft the boat completely. Today, most boats are designed, drafted, lofted, and provided with full-size patterns plotted from computer-generated offsets. You can’t improve on that, even by completely re-lofting the boat by hand.
The patterns you receive will most likely contain full-size shapes for all the frames for one side. This is all you’ll need unless you are building an asymmetrical hull. In addition to the frames, other full-size shapes may include the stem, the developed transom (the full-size transom shape when the curved transom is laid out flat—the radius will be included in the plan details); and the deck and cabin top beam cambers. Also, patterns may be included for the rudder, window patterns, and other items. These extra patterns are included when the designer feels that they will ensure that you interpret his ideas as intended. If possible, use these patterns. Usually any “improvement” in the designer’s work will result in a less attractive boat.
Paper patterns are fine, provided they are handled properly. These patterns should not be exposed to a damp atmosphere before being transferred to a more durable surface. If your plans come with paper patterns, don’t open or unroll the patterns until you’re ready to start building the boat. The patterns that come with our plans arrive in a plastic bag, which ensures they remain as printed until you are ready to lay out the patterns and make the frames.
You’ll need a suitable surface on which to lay out the patterns. You can work either directly from the patterns (not recommended) or you can transfer them to plywood or steel plate. This working area is variously known as the loft floor, the master plate, or any one of a dozen other locally inspired names. If you are transferring the frame shapes and other patterns to plywood, you can use a dressmaker’s wheel to mark the shapes through the patterns onto the surface of the plywood. This plywood could be later used in the fitting-out process, so it won’t represent an additional expense. If you’re transferring to steel plate, you’ll need to center-punch the main points onto the steel plate and use a batten and straightedge to scribe in the shapes of the frames. In the case of shaped frames and the stem, you’ll need to center-punch several points along the curve and then join the marks with the aid of a batten and the drafting weights known as “ducks.” We find the plywood surface has many advantages.
The advice above applies to multi-chine sailboats, single-chine powerboats, and round-bilge boats of all types. In the case of radius-chine hulls, you’ll don't need to transfer the radius sections from the patterns; transfer only the straight sections. You should have the radius-frame parts bent to the radius specified on your plans, and the length (as measured around each radius) that will be needed to match up to the straight sections of the frames. Allow a little extra for trimming.
