In general terms, you’ll use the same paint on the decks and superstructure as you have used on the hull topsides. The cabin sides and ends will almost certainly be painted in the same way as the hull. With a few exceptions, the preparation methods for the decks, cockpit and cabin tops will follow a similar routine. Don’t have too many coloured strips, and don’t chop up the area into many small sections or you may end up with a pattern that looks fussy. It takes careful thought and some experience to lay out a successful two-colour paint scheme for the decks and cabin tops. The designer of your boat may give you some advice and assistance in this area.
If you’re planning to install one of the composite patterned deck-covering materials such as Treadmaster then obtain it in advance and carefully study the installation instructions. You must ensure that the adhesive used to install the decking will be compatible with the paint used on the deck. Having the decking material on hand will also allow you to make a better choice of colour for the painted areas of the deck, that is, those areas that will remain exposed after the patterned material is in place. If you’re planning a timber-laid deck, you’ll need to make sure that the preparation is in keeping with the materials you’ll be using.
No matter what arrangement you decide on for your decks and superstructure, make sure you give the area adequate coats of paint. Our steel power cruiser has five hand-applied finish coats; a perfect finish after many years of constant exposure to the elements proves the worth of a good paint job. Always carry a supply of primer, undercoat, and finish paints to touch up the dings and scratches that one gets from time to time.
ANTIFOULING
The technology behind antifouling paints is constantly changing. On boats with copper-nickel hulls you won’t have to worry; they don’t need antifouling. The natural action of the metal keeps most marine growth at bay. But steel and aluminum boats need a preventive coating for the areas below the waterline.
Just when we believe we’ve found the answer to the antifouling problem, along comes an environmentalist to point out the toxic problems caused by the use of certain protective bottom paints. For this reason, it’s hard to make specific recommendations. As is the case with the entire paint job, my advice is to select one manufacturer and use their system from the first etch primer through to the final coat of antifouling. When you’re applying antifouling, you will need to estimate the load waterline and make sure your antifouling is carried to about 2 1/2 inches (60 mm) above this line. The reason for painting the antifouling above the true waterline is that the water is never static, and if you finish the antifouling right at the waterline, you’ll soon have an ugly growth of weed at, and just above, the true waterline.
BOOT-TOPS
You shouldn’t paint the boot-top until after the boat has been launched and trimmed. After you’ve conducted trials, loaded stores and water, and determined the exact load waterline, only then should you consider painting the boot-top. Incidentally, they’re not just a straight, parallel line; they need to be applied so the line, when viewed from the side, appears parallel, or appears to have slightly more width at the ends. These lines are difficult to get right, especially on sailboats where the aft sections sweep underneath the hull and require quite a wide line to give the correct appearance. Avoid excessive upward sweeps of boot-top at the bow.
If you start with a level line parallel to the load waterline, it can represent the bottom of your boot-top; next, using a level, strike a second line above and parallel to the first, you will see how this line widens out at the stern. Study other boats that are out of the water, and you’ll get the idea. Don’t copy the ones that don’t look right. Powerboats will not present the same problems, because the hull sides are more-or-less parallel. A boot-top made of a tape of constant width can work with a powerboat, but it would look totally wrong on a sailboat hull.
