FIRE

A fire blanket is an essential item of galley equipment; this device can be most efficient in fighting the type of fire and flare up that you are likely to encounter in the galley. In addition to the fire blanket you should have at least two fire extinguishers located in the galley area. Make sure they are of a type that is suitable for putting out the fires you are likely to encounter. The dry powder type of extinguisher is one of the most successful at putting out the type of fires you are likely to encounter on your boat. A trip to your local fire station or department would be a good investment as you will learn much that may not only save your boat but your life as well. When new crew come aboard, make sure you explain the working of these items; they can not be tested, but they can be examined and the workings explained to all. 

THE SINK

The sink should be of reasonable proportions and if possible placed close to the centreline of the boat. A double sink is a nice feature but in any case a deep bowl is important and a decent sized draining area complete with a fold up dish draining rack will be appreciated by the cook. In the less recent past the sink was always fitted with both a salt and fresh water pumps; today’s crews usually demand a less Spartan arrangement and the salt water is usually left outside the hull.

WATER TANKS

Until recently it was necessary for the long distance cruising boat to carry sufficient water for each leg of the voyage. This meant not only carrying large amounts of fresh water but also strict budgeting of the daily use and in the case of a slow passage rationing was a distinct possibility.  Now that water makers are becoming less expensive and may be considered by the owners of cruising boats the need to carry large quantities of water are no longer necessary . An emergency hand operated water maker is a sensible option for even the smallest long distance cruising boat. If your cruising is undertaken where you are able to replenish your water every few days then you would be better off to invest in larger tanks. On medium to large boats, the making and storage of hot water can usually be arranged via the engine cooling system or by other means; see the engineering chapter for more on this subject.

PRESSURE WATER SYSTEMS

On medium to large coastal cruising boats pressure water systems are a desirable feature and are one shore-side feature that is gladly accepted in all but the smallest cruising boat. Where pressure water systems are installed in long distance cruisers they should be so arranged that they can be switched off during passage making legs of the voyage. This usually means a duel system of pressure water backed up by hand or foot pump arrangements on each sink and hand basin etc.

   There are two basic types of pressure water systems, those with a pressure tank and those that work on demand. The former arrangement is superior because it means that pressure is maintained in a special tank and the pump does not have to operate every time a tap is turned on; the latter is annoying to those who may be sleeping when another crew member draws a drink of water.

ICE BOXES

The icebox was an essential item of any boat built before the advent of on board refrigeration and many boats still rely on this food preservation and storage system. It is possible to produce freezing temperatures by mixing salt with crushed ice however the lack of a constant supply of ice usually precludes this option on your boat. If you want to be able to make ice cubes or freeze ice cream and maintain a freezer compartment on your boat then some form of mechanical refrigeration will be required. For those with smaller cruising boats who mainly undertake coastal cruising then an icebox may fulfil your requirements.

   A properly built ice box should maintain temperatures at 5 to 10 decrees C right up until the ice has melted.  To give some idea of what you can expect from your ice box let us consider a 2.4 cu ft (75 lit) box and a 12 lb (5 kg) block of ice; this will last about two days during the summer months.  As you can see this is not a practical proposition for long distance cruising but would suffice for the weekend sailor or over the holidays in areas where replenishment of the ice is a practical alternative. If you opt for an ice box make it with the following features; minimum size to suit your needs, top opening, good seals, proper drainage system and most importantly at least 3 in (75 mm) of  polyurethane insulation material on all faces of the box.

   Many owners of  coastal cruising boats rely on a portable ice box that can be brought down to a low temperature and stocked with food before you leave home. 

REFRIGERATION

The refrigerator in your home is powered by a compressor which circulates the refrigerant gas through pipes which in turn force the heat out of your refrigerator cabinet. Over the past few years several systems have been developed that make it possible to transfer this and similar technology to your boat. Firstly let us consider the main practical options available to the cruising sailor.

   Absorption cycle systems dates back to the earliest refrigerators and was the system that first replaced the family ice box. Although now replaced in home refrigerators by efficient compressor systems, the absorption cycle system is worth your serious consideration when deciding how you will power your on board refrigeration. The energy used to operate this system is heat which can be supplied by burning LPG (liquefied petroleum gas) or by electricity. Most of these models will run on both gas, battery supplied 12V DC or 240/120V AC mains or on board generated electricity. Usually these units come in a ready built cabinet and often incorporate a freezer section.

   These units are best considered in situations where marina shore power is frequently available or where you have a regular supply of on-board generated AC power; they may be the perfect solution for the weekend or coastal sailor where time at sea is restricted to two or three days at one time. It is not recommended to run these units on gas when the boat is underway; of course you could gimbal the whole unit but that would involve giving up considerable extra space and there are other systems more suitable for the long distance cruiser.

   Compressor driven systems mounted in a regular cabinet similar to your domestic refrigerator are another option.  Most of these units are about the size of an under counter bar refrigerator and have a small freezer compartment. In size and style they resemble the absorption system units.  These units  usually  operate on 12V DC and 240 V or 120V AC Unfortunately unless concentrated to shore power or run from the on board generating set, they will have to be run on 12V DC power  and as they draw and average of 5 amps from your battery and while they may be ideal for weekend sailors they are not really a solution for the offshore passagemaker.

   DC heat pumps operate in a similar manner to the compressor driven systems described above; their main advantage is that they are available as a separate unit that can be installed in your own purpose built compartment. These units are powered by either 12V or 24V DC battery power and have the advantage of drawing around 2 amps which is a current drain that can be sustained by most on board electrical systems. This is one system that is worth serious consideration by those who require refrigeration and are planning extended offshore passages.

   Engine driven refrigeration is the ultimate system for the long distance cruiser. If you require large capacity refrigeration with freezing capabilities then one of these units will suit you best. The compressor can be belt driven off a special pulley that is either attached to the main engine or perhaps the engine that drives your genset.

The only real drawback of these units is that they are expensive costing over £1,000 or US$1,500 for the component parts; if you can install your own then this cost may be acceptable; a custom installed unit would run the cost up to £3,000 or US$4,500. The engine will only need to be run about one hour per day to power this unit; if operated by the same engine as the genset then this could be a very economical and tidy arrangement to solve all your refrigeration requirements.

   It is possible to power a small refrigeration unit with solar panel, wind generator or a combination of the two. It is worth mentioning that you will not be cruising very long before you will become involved in discussions regarding the various forms of charging your own electricity supply.

   Any appliance or piece of equipment that you have aboard your boat will have to be maintained and you had better be prepared to acquire the necessary skills to keep all of your equipment working. You are unlikely to be able to undertake some major repairs but you will need to take care of all the minor ones. Fortunately there are other cruising folk out there who have professional skills and who will be willing to fulfil many of your needs.

SETEES

If your boat is already fitted out make sure that the settees and other seating locations are comfortable. I went aboard a boat where there was not one comfortable seat, lots of seating but no comfortable seating. I like the idea of two really comfortable chairs set on one side of the cabin with a small table in between. This is the place for the captain and mate to really relax when in port or when conditions at sea allow for such luxuries.

   Settee berths are usually just that, they are used as settees in the day time and for sleeping at night. Sometimes if a settee is the correct width for seating, about 1 ft 6 ins [457 mm] it is too narrow for sleeping where the correct width is about 2'-3" [686 mm]. This problem can be overcome at either the design or refitting stage by widening the settee and using a shaped back cushion to take up the extra width in the daytime. Hinged seat backs and other arrangements can also turn  the seat into a berth.

THE CHART TABLE

The chart table is an important part of any cruising boat. In all but the smallest cruising boat it should be possible to arrange a permanent purpose built navigation station. A satisfactory arrangement is to use the inboard end of a quarter berth as a seat and build the chart table just ahead of this arrangement. Not only does this utilise some of the space for two purposes (very important in any but the smallest boat) but it locates the chart table athwartships and places the navigator facing forward; the ideal arrangement. Try and incorporate space at the chart table for folded or rolled charts, electronic appliances such as radio(s), GPS and other navigational aids. Even if your boat carries mainly portable navigational equipment, it should have a regular stowage area.

   Some navigators prefer to undertake their chart work standing up; others prefer to allocate any spare space to another priority and use the main saloon table for laying out the charts. You will have your own preferences and space limitations and existing arrangements will all play their part. Given the option, unless you are prepared to have your chart work disturbed by a variety of other activities, then you will be better served with a proper navigational area no matter how it is arranged.

SALOON TABLE

Regarding the saloon table, here you have a myriad of choices. Many boats under 35 ft (10.67m) are still arranged with the table more or less on the centreline and when in use it is impossible for any person to move forward or aft. If you can arrange the main saloon table to be off  to one side of the centreline and either incorporate an L or similar arrangement for the seating, you will leave a clear space for people to move about the boat. Centreline tables were popular when boats had a much narrower beam; now we have other choices.

   The saloon table is one item where you should spend considerable time studying other boats. If possible talk to other owners as everyone has their own ideas. My preference is to have the saloon table combined with an L shaped settee and located opposite two comfortable chairs.

LIGHTING

The lighting throughout your interior will need to be carefully arranged so you receive as much natural light in the daytime and economical artificial light after dark. As mentioned elsewhere, hatches with smoked or clear Perspex inserts provide considerably more light than any number of portlights. Have fabric covers made for the larger hatches so on the hotter days you can keep the direct sunlight at bay. Windows and portlights do play a part in admitting light to the cabin areas however their main function is to allow the occupants to see out.

   In the modern cruising boat the artificial lighting is mainly supplied by electricity. When you are cruising this normally means 12 volt power supplied by the domestic batteries. Small lights placed so they can be used for reading at the same time as supplying general lighting are preferred to single overhead units. Low powered long life bulbs are now available from the Dutch marine manufacturer Vetus Den Ouden. Halogen lamps and florescent tubes are also suitable for marine use and use less power than most other types.

   Nothing beats the soft light given out by a paraffin (kerosene) lamp; unfortunately it does mean carrying another fuel and the lamps can smoke and sometimes smell. Candle light is also attractive but should be restricted for use when safely tied up in a quiet berth. Any lamp or candle that emits naked flame does present an additional hazard. One has to be careful to keep this type  of light well away from the deck head as the heat directed up the glass chimney of a paraffin lamp can ignite the deck head covering. A protective hood installed above the lamp is essential.

HATCHES AND VENTILATORS

Adequate ventilation is essential in any boat. The arrangement has to be capable of letting air flow through the boat while not admitting water at the same time.  Because opening portlights are often a constant source of leaks, you should look elsewhere when planning the air flow through your interior.

   Deck hatches and ventilators are the prime source of fresh air. It is not just a matter of opening the hatches on a hot day; the correct airflow has to be established to achieve the desired result. When you are sailing you will want to be able to establish an efficient airflow without admitting spray; fortunately there are a number of ways to achieve this. There are a number of different style hatches available that can be opened in more than one direction. If you have a cabin heating stove then make sure your ventilation arrangements can be arranged to not interfere with the operation of this item.

   You should have available one or more fabric wind-scoops that can be rigged at any one of your hatches to get the air moving in the direction you desire. Dorade, mushroom and similar vents can be made and installed in such a way as to allow air in and keep water out. One or two small 12 volt fans will also do wonders in moving air throughout the interior of your boat.

HEATING

Efficient heating is an essential requirement unless you plan to cruise exclusively in warmer climates. If you plan to live aboard on a permanent basis, then you should plan for some form of heating system no matter where you intend to cruise. My first choice and the simplest form of heater is a drip fed diesel heating stove which has the advantage of using readily available fuel and providing the most heat for the least cost. One heater should be sufficient in boats up to 35 ft (10.67 m); another reason for a simple aft cockpit layout in this size of boat. This type of heater needs to be vented outside by way of a chimney. If the stove is located near a bulkhead or other joinery then that area will need insulating against the heat radiated from the stove. I have found that a stainless steel chimney known as a ‘Charlie Noble’ that can be taken off and stored when not in use makes an excellent companion to a diesel heating stove. The chimney opening will require an alternative cover when the stove is not is use.

   A popular heater in Europe and more recently in the US is the Eberspacher (other similar makes are also becoming available) which is a diesel powered unit that heats the air before it is fan driven to various vents around the boat; in effect this is a thermostat controlled central heating system. Providing you keep it operating this is a wonderful unit however  being somewhat complex in nature and involving additional electrical wiring, it can only be recommended for boats around 40 ft (12.19 m) and larger.

   Solid fuel stoves may be found on many traditional boats where they seem in keeping with the rest of the boat; however you may have a problem stowing sufficient fuel on board for but the shortest of cruises. Calor or butane (LPG) gas heaters are another possibility however following my own advice of having the minimum gas appliances aboard, I would prefer another alternative.

   In most areas the use of heaters and even the heat from the crew will cause condensation which has  to be dealt with otherwise it will cause similar problems to allowing spray to continually invade you living area. In a larger boat you may be able to afford the luxury of a small Dri-Boy dehumidifier which will remove up to 2 1/2 gallons (11 lit) of water per day; this water can be used in your battery. Unfortunately this is rather an expensive way of producing water to top up the battery! You can purchase bags of crystals that are specially formulated for collecting and removing moisture from the surrounding air; these are most useful to remove condensation from the air during the period that your boat is laid up over the winter.

   Some of the systems we have discussed in this chapter are not suitable for boats that are intended for serious offshore use. You will need to decide if you are capable and prepared to service and maintain complex equipment that is operating in an unfriendly environment. As a general rule, the smaller the boat the simpler the equipment should be.

   If your cruising takes you far offshore then you will need spares for every item that is repairable. Unfortunately many items especially the electronic variety are not repairable, at least not repairable by most of us. Even if we are proud of our DIY skills there are limitations to our knowledge and capabilities; keep this in mind when selecting any item that is not absolutely necessary for operating your boat.